* What have I done for you lately?
* Hop research kneecapped
* More acreage reduction
* Multi-generation farm for sale
* Additional reading
Welcome to Vol. 8, No. 10. Some months writing this newsletter is not much fun. As expected, merchants told growers attending the American Hop Convention that another round of acreage reduction is necessary. Just as troubling, the blanket firing of Department of Agriculture employees makes “what’s next?” for the U.S. hop research program uncertain. This is, as they say, a developing story, one I am busy trying to make sense of for Brewing Industry Guide. So briefly (and pardon any typos) . . .
HELP ME MAKE THIS FUN
Before moving on to the dreary stuff, here is an invitation to submit a question, a topic you would like to see explored in depth, something you’ve read about elsewhere you think I’ve overlooked, whatever. The address is [email protected].
I’ll get any questions about dry hopping cider out of the way now. For starters, in this paper I learned: Dry-hopped cider sales have surpassed “normal” cider sales in Norway, and apples may contain thiol precursors.
MORE TO IT THAN LOSING ON SCIENTIST
On Feb. 13, the USDA fired an unknown number of employees, many of them scientists and most of them still on probation. They include Francisco Gonzalez, a hop horticulturist who was 42 days from finishing his three-year probation period, and Brandon Sandoval, a biological science technician who worked for Gonzalez. Gonzalez had one measuring tape in any empty lab when he started, and now it is fully stocked. He spent two years building a six-acre experimental hop yard customized for irrigation studies, which was to operate at its full capabilities for the first time 2025. It appears both the lab and yard will be idle this year.
Just as important going forward is the loss of support staff offering administrative, IT, and facility support services. Additionally, a federal hiring freeze leaves the remaining team of researchers — breeders John Henning in Oregon and Kayla Altendorf in Washington, along with pathologist David Gent in Oregon — unable to recruit key technicians and staff. This will impact how much of what they hoped to get accomplished this year turns out to be doable.
As I already typed, look for more in Brewing Industry Guide. You may also read more about Gonzalez and other Yakima Valley federal workers who were fired in the Yakima Herald-Republic. The story is behind a paywall, but I wasn’t blocked first time I visited.
TOO MANY HOPS, TOO LITTLE VISABILITY
The headline on my Brewing Industry Guide story might tell you as much as you think you need to know. For brewers without contracts, and for homebrewers who buy their hops pounds at a time, 2025 will continue to be a good year to purchase most varieties of hops at attractive prices.
Just remember that farmers and merchants have often overshot the mark when reducing production to clear out excess inventory, resulting in shortages of under-contracted varieties. For instance, Indie Hops CEO Jim Solberg said his company sold more Strata in 2024 than farmers harvested, but they would string only enough acres in 2025 to fill 2026 contracts signed by February 15. Other orders will be filled from older inventory. He said, “(crop 2022) is brewing really nice right now.”
The USDA will report acres strung for harvest in June (it appears that service will not be affected), making prospects for 2025 harvest clearer. What may not be obvious is what quantities of newly named varieties, such as Krush and Erebus, will be available because acreage is too small to be reported. I hope to be able to pass along more about those next month.
The health of the hop industry — really, hop industries, because much of what happens makes more sense when considered on a country-to-country basis — depends on finding a balance. Production of expressive aroma varieties clearly has been out of balance in the United States, but now the world has a glut of alpha (the product of high alpha hops, quite often already processed into CO2 extract). If farmers in the Northwest did not harvest a single high alpha cone in 2025 that probably would not get the world supply back in balance.
Germany will be the key. Herkules, an alpha beast, already accounts for 36 percent of acreage in Germany and 46 percent of production. As demand for Perle and Hallertau Tradition shrinks, farmers may be tempted to plant even more Herkules.
BRULOTTE FARMS FOR SALE
I’m told there were plenty of rumors about Brulotte Farms, which harvested 1,500 acres in 2023 (more than total production in England), at the hop convention. Some of those reflect a level of pessimism about the immediate future, which is all I am going to mention before getting to the facts:
* The farm is listed for sale.
* The farm employed about 200 people during the 2023 harvest. That includes seasonal help. Several year-round employees have already gone to work elsewhere.
* Owner Reggie Brulotte is a sixth-generation farmer. Her grandfather bought the land in 1944 where the farm is currently located.
* “One of the big things I’ve seen changing is the number of daughters coming back into the farm. That was not a thing, that was not really done when I was growing up,” she said in a story posted during the 2023 harvest. “My sister and I weren’t encouraged to be part of the farm. My brother was going to be the one who was farming, but then plans change — and now I’m farming.” This is another story behind a pay wall (couldn’t get in on the second visit).
* The USDA does not report acreage of BRU-1, developed and grown only on the farm, but Reggie Brulotte said in that story it is significant.
* Emails to the farm went unanswered and various voicemail boxes at the farm are full.
ADDITIONAL READING
U.S. hop industry problems explained. I’m quoted in this story, as is Eric Sannerud, so regular readers of Hop Queries or Hop Notes will be familiar with what is here. However, the view from deep within the rabbit hole is different than the one from above ground and worth considering.